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Did you ever wonder how henna works? It's not magic - it's science!
Introducing: Lawsone
Inside the leaves of the henna plant, there is a dye molecule called lawsone. This is a naturally occuring dye, similar to turmeric, saffron, beets and berries. When the dried plant leaves are mixed in to a paste, the mixing ingredients are designed to release the lawsone molecule.
After mixing, the paste needs to 'soak' to allow the dye molecule to be released. Dye release can take up to 24 hours depending on the ingredients and mixing conditions.
It's all in the mix!
Henna ingredients aren't just chosen at random, nor are they chosen only to make the paste smell good (although that's an added bonus).
Henna requires a slightly acidic pH in order to draw out the lawsone molecule, so using an acidic mixer like lemon juice helps give the paste a strong foundation for dye release. Some artists choose to mix with other fruit juices, or with strong tea. Where a client has a citrus sensitivity, or where a client may be undergoing a high-stress situation (such as pregnancy), the paste can be mixed with water instead.
Essential oils are also a vital part of a strong henna paste. Essential oils are extracted from aromatic plants, herbs, flowers or trees to create a highly concentrated liquid. Not all essential oils are created equal, and only a select few are useful for creating a strong henna paste. Cajeput, Tea Tree and Eucalyptus oils are amongst those most commonly used by henna artists. Lavender is another artist favourite, and is thought to be the least-volatile of the oils, making it more suitable for pregnant women and children whose skin may be more sensitive than the average adult.
How Does Henna Stain Your Skin
Your skin is made up of layers. The top layer of your skin is the epidermis, and this is where the magic - ahem, the science - of henna stains happens.
When henna paste is applied to your skin, the lawsone molecule binds itself to the keratin in your skin. Keratin is the main protein in the surface of your skin, and is also in your hair and nails. When the lawsone binds itself to the keratin, the skin cell turns orange.
Once the paste is removed, the stained skin is exposed to the air. It will darken over the next 2-3 days through a process called oxidation. This is the same process that makes the inside of an apple turn brown if you don't eat it fast enough.
This is why it's important to keep your henna warm and dry for the first 24-48 hours. By keeping the henna warm, you're adding energy to the oxidation process which helps speed it up for a darker stain. Adding water to the stain slows down this process, so the stain will not get as dark.
As your body is constantly producing new skin cells, the stained skin cells on top will eventually wear away to reveal new, unstained cells beneath. This is why moisteurisers can help prolong henna stains, and why gentle exfoliation can help them wear away faster.
The Stain Map
The skin cells that make up your epidermis are different depending on where they appear on your body.
The palms of your hands and the soles of your feet are more likely to experience wear and tear, so the skin cells here are thinner and packed tightly together. As you move closer to your torso, the skin cells become thicker and are spaced further apart.
When henna is applied to your skin, it works its way through your epidermis from the top down, staining the cells on top and then moving on to the cells underneath. Because henna is a semi-transparent dye, this means that stacking stained cells on top of each other will give you a darker stain than a single stained cell by itself.
This is why a henna stain on the palms of your hands and the soles of your feet will always give you a deeper, richer colour than a stain on your arms, thighs or torso. Take a look at the Henna Stain Map to see this in more detail.
Every Body is Different
Everyone has a unique combination of cells, tissues, hormones and chemicals that make them one of a kind (even twins don't always have 100% identical DNA!). Everyone has different levels of keratin in their skin, a different resting body temperature, different hormone levels and cycles, different skin colours and tones... the list goes on.
The way that henna reacts with your skin will be different to how it reacts to everyone else around you. This is why I say that your henna stain celebrates YOU. Nobody else can produce a henna stain that's just like yours, so your stain is as unique as your signature. It's one of a kind, just like you.
Ready to get your henna on?
If you'd like to experience the science of henna up close, why not book yourself in for some henna?
Head over to the Book Online page for 1-2-1 bookings, small group sessions, party bookings and more.
For bookings more than 3 months in advance, or for any general enquiries, get in touch via the Contact page.