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I get asked this question all the time, and that's a good thing. It’s a good question! Henna isn’t just art, it’s science, and like any good scientist we need to understand the variables to maximise the results.
So what are the variables? And how do we control them? Let’s dive right in and find out!
The Lemon Lie
First things first, let’s sift fact from fiction. I know that I’m not the only person who’s heard of applying lemon juice to a fresh henna stain to make it darker.
Lemon juice is commonly included in a henna paste mix because using a sour liquid helps to break up the cellulose in henna leaf particles in order to release more dye molecules. The more dye molecules are available in the mix, the more dye is left behind on your skin which results in a darker stain.
However, once the henna molecules have penetrated your skin, lemon juice really can’t do that much to them.
The Henna
The first step of a great henna stain is good quality henna.
If you’ve visited the What Is Henna? page then you’ll know that henna paste starts its life as a plant. The conditions in which the henna plant grows can affect stain quality and colour, meaning that each henna crop could yield different results. My henna powder comes via a supplier in the UK who works directly henna powder providers to ensure that each year’s crop is of a good enough quality to be used for body art.
Once the henna powder arrives, it’s time to mix. This is another vital step in the process of getting a good henna stain. In order the get the best out of the henna, the ingredients are carefully selected and measured and the paste sits for 12-24 hours in order to release the dye molecules from the henna powder. The more dye molecules are available, the darker the henna stain will be on the skin.
(It's taken me years of trial and error to fine-tune my mixing recipe and process to get the most out of my henna paste, and it's been so worth it!)
Henna is like a box of chocolates...
Henna leaves behind a semi-transparent dye which is orange at first but develops to a shade of brown (more on this below). The final colour will vary depending on a number of factors, including how deep the dye can penetrate and how tightly the layers of skin are packed together.
The best way I can describe it is like plastic Quality Street wrappers. If you take one brown plastic wrapper from a toffee sweet (one of my favourites) and place it on top of a piece of paper, the paper will look brown. Take a few more wrappers and the colour will get darker. Stack enough of them on top of each other, and you might even make the paper look black (even though the wrappers are still brown).
The same thing applies to henna. The henna dye works its way through the top layers of skin, and the more skin cells it can touch the darker the stain will be. This is also why henna stains on your hands and feet where the skin cells (Quality Street wrappers) are packed closely together are darker than stains on the upper arm, thigh or core where the skin cells are thicker and fewer.
To make the stain deeper and last longer, we want to stack as many 'Quality Street wrappers' on top of each other and make sure they stick around for as long as we can. This is where you come in!
Preparation
Whilst the quality of the henna powder and paste are definitely key to getting a dark henna stain, another important part of the process is the preparation of the skin prior to application.
Gentle exfoliation prior to the henna appointment helps to remove any dead or dying skin cells, meaning that the skin cells stained by the the henna will stick around longer. (Be careful! If you over-exfoliate you can damage the skin which will make your stain lighter.)
I also recommend showering before you get your henna done. Not only does this give you a chance for some gentle exfoliation, it also means you can push your next shower back a day or two. (Avoiding water is a key part of a great henna stain - more on that later!)
Lotions, butters, creams and moisturisers are great for your skin, but they will work against your henna stain. Each of them forms a barrier between the henna and surface of your skin, slowing the rate at which the henna can transfer dye molecules in to your skin cells. I always swab the area with an alcohol-based hand sanitiser before we begin to help cut through any lotions, potions or natural oils that have built up throughout the day. Avoid using any products on your skin prior to your appointment for best results.
Aftercare
Great aftercare results in great stains (#fact).
Your aftercare starts as soon as the henna is applied. To help get the most out of your stain, I apply a sealant made from lemon juice and sugar to help keep the paste stuck to your skin for as long as possible. The longer you can wear the henna paste, the more time the henna has to leave dye molecules in your skin (stacking up those sweet, sweet Quality Street wrappers!). I recommend a 4 hour minimum where possible to create a rich, long-lasting stain.
(For private appointments I will also give you the option of taking some medical-grade body tape away with you to cover the paste once it is dry so you can go about your day without leaving a trail of henna freckles behind you!)
Once the paste has been removed, the stain will be orange at first. Over the next 1-3 days the stain will develop its final colour, and there are things you can do to help it.
Keeping your henna stain warm is super important! Remember when I said henna was science? Chemical reactions happen quicker when there’s heat involved, so make sure to keep warm (this is especially important if you’re getting henna done in the winter).
Stay away from water for as long as you can during the first 3 days! Water will slow the stain’s development, leaving you with a lighter stain.
⮜ Both of these designs were done with the same cone on the same day on the same part of the body (thigh). The design on the right was covered with water while the design on the left stayed dry. Here's how they looked 36 hours later.
When deciding where to get your henna, it’s important to think about how quickly the skin is likely to wear away. If you work in healthcare, food, beauty or any role that means you have to wash your hands a lot (hello, full-time parents!) then you might want to consider avoiding henna on your hands.
Every stain is different
It’s important to remember that everyone’s henna stain is different. Your henna stain is unique to you, and that’s beautiful! You are the only person in the world who can produce your henna stain, and I think that’s wonderful!
The colour of your skin will have a huge impact on how the final henna stain will look. Paler skin tends to create a high-contrast stain, whereas darker skin creates deeper, richer stains. Your skin’s ability to absorb the dye molecule will also play a huge part in your final stain, as some people are able to absorb more dye than others.
Also consider that your stain is affected by the chemical composition of your body and your hormones. Stress, fatigue and alcohol can all impact your henna stain (so it’s probably best to avoid a heavy night on the town before your henna appointment).
Checklist
TL;DR? I got you covered. Here’s a checklist summary of how to get the most out of your henna stain:
PREPARATION
Shower before your appointment with gentle exfoliation
Avoid skin products prior to your appointment, including lotions, creams, butters or oils
Clean the skin with an alcohol-based skin sanitiser before applying the henna
CHOOSE HIGH QUALITY HENNA PASTE
Great henna paste starts with great ingredients, so ask your artist about their henna mix
Always use hand-made henna paste (never use chemical, shelf-stable “henna”)
AFTERCARE
Keep the henna on your skin for as long as possible (aim for 4 hours or more)
Keep the skin warm and dry whilst the stain develops
Avoid water for as long as possible during the first 1-3 days
REMEMBER
Your stain is unique to you, and it is beautiful.
Nobody else has a henna stain like yours. Embrace it.
Stress, fatigue and alcohol can impact your stain. Take care of yourself!
(Psst! Wanna book in for some be-you-tiful body art? Head over to the Contact Me page and get in touch!)